“My smokey eye looks punched!”
…Just how often do we exclaim in horror when we look into the mirror? I, for one, have said that a zillion times after countless of attempts to achieve the smokey eye effect.
My idea of a perfectly smudged asian smokey eye
Credits: asian-trends.tumblr
I remember my first attempt very vividly. That was after I watched a chick flick when I was still in secondary school. At that point of time, the girl in me wanted to transform from geeky school girl to a hot chick. Think Christina Aguilera, Olsen twins and Britney Spears (when she was skinny). But hey, don’t we all secretly love attention?
So, my attempt to look like a white chick flopped and I looked like a deranged psychotic asian girl who lives in a haunted mansion instead.
My next few attempts were no better. The looks I achieved were I-just-got-punched, Gothic princess, amateur teen with smudged eyeliner still in the midst of learning, and drunk party girl.
From there, I learnt a few lessons. To be able to create the smokey eye requires a hell load of techniques, and I will discuss a few of them here.
Bad smokey eye on Kelly Osbourne
Credits: webparkz
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Number #1 – “I am Asian, hence I don’t imitate Taylor Swift”
One of my biggest mistake is to copy the smokey eye effect on Caucasians. And that means an extra thick layer of eyeshadow that we don’t need. We should keep the smokey eye as natural as possible (Number #12 elaborates the details), and not as dramatic as the above picture unless our next destination is to a Halloween party.
Although I have double eyelids, my Asian eyes are not as deep set. Applying dark coloured shadow a few centimetres above my eye would immediately turn me into a gothic chick.
Unless you want to look punched, the over-exaggerated application of dark eyeshadow is a recipe for makeup disaster.
Taylor Swift’s smokey eye
Number #2 - Use a pigmented eyeshadow so the colour stays
Have you ever tried black eyeshadow from Daiso? For those of you who tried, you would probably agree with me that the quality is so bad that the black eyeshadow, when applied to the eyelids, looks grey mainly because the particles are too thick to stay on the eyelids.
After trying a couple of black eyeshadows, I would say that most brands work well. That includes Bobbi Brown, MAC, L’Oreal, Maybelline and 88 eyeshadow palette.
So, if you want a black eyeshadow to stay on, don’t try buying the product from Daiso.
88 Eyeshadow Palette
(To purchase, go to “Makeup shop” at top right hand corner)
Number #3 – Prevent eyeshadow from falling all over your face
Many times I used a brush to apply eyeshadow, and little particles will drop on my cheeks. When I swipe it away gently with facial tissue, I get a long streak of black. And this is a major bitch.
However, we can prevent it from happening. Using a piece of tissue on the cheek while applying the eyeshadow with a brush should do the trick.
Tissue!
Number #4 - Let the eyeshadow last all day
You might ask – How do we let the shadow last all day? Wouldn’t the pigment fall off automatically after 12 hours?
Well, thanks to the primer potion by Urban Decay, eyeshadow can now last for very, very, very long hours and make your eyes look more vibrant at the same time.
If you want a creaseless effect, this Holy Grail of eye primer is the product for you.
The holy grail of eye primer
Number #5 - You need a base colour to highlight
If you have dark eye rings like me, you probably need a highligher to cover the dullness. A white or light coloured eyeshadow serves as a great base before application of dark coloured eyeshadow because it creates a three dimensional effect as well as make the eyes look less tired.
From my lazy-days experience, I have tried using black eyeshadow without a highlighting base and it does not look as great. So my point is, the base colour works wonders, if you know what I mean.
White base
Number #6 - Get rid of dark eye circles
Smokey eyes with dark eye circles are for vampires, not a pretty girl.
Without concealing, smokey eyes will not look good. To begin with, dark eye circles do not look good! For the dark smokey effect to look red-carpet worthy, there should be a contrast. Dark eye circles or heavy eye bags will destroy the look.
That said, you need to conceal, conceal, conceal.
[Concealing is another tough part, so I will blog about the art of concealing in another entry.]
15 Concealer Palette
(To purchase, go to “Makeup shop” at top right hand corner)
Number #7 - Decide on whether you prefer liquid, gel, pencil or other types of eyeliner
They are not the same, although the purpose of eyeliner is to enhance our eyes and make them bigger.
Pencil and gel eyeliner are easier to control and slide on our eyelids. However, it is not easy to smudge it if we want to create a smokey eye effect. Hence, we can try applying eyeshadow before using eyeliner to define the shape of the eyes.
My method is to blend and smudge eyeshadow, before applying a thin line of liquid eyeliner for definition. Liquid liner will be more contrasted against the eyeshadow as compared to pencil eyeliner, but that is how I like it. For those without a steady hand, you might choose to use a pencil eyeliner instead.
(To purchase, go to “Makeup shop” at top right hand corner)
Number #8 - Decide on whether you prefer a shimmer or matte texture
Kawaii girl, or smoldering eyes that make men go weak?
For the kawaii look, I will use the new Chanel shimmer black eyeshadow for the top, and shimmer white eyeshadow on my lower lash line.
For the smoldering look, I will definitely go with my matte Bobbi Brown black eyeshadow.
Number #9 - Minimal application on our lower lash line
Applying minimal eyeshadow on our lower lash line is extremely important.
Being Chinese, it is not easy for me to carry off the dark lower lash line look. But I personally think that Indians can carry off that look beautifully.
What I do to my smokey eye is to line only the outer half of my eye. This would prevent me from looking like a panda, yet enlarge my eyes at the same time.
Number #10 - Decide on whether you want to use a brush, or fingers
For those without a sponge applicator, smudge applicator or an eye defining brush, you can too smudge your eyeshadow with your fingers.
In fact, I believe that most people will agree with me that the effects of using fingers to smudge works way better than any sort of applicators.
Being lazy and tired of the many steps I have to take to get my smokey eye, I would usually apply my eyeshadow with a brush. With sufficient practice, the brush effect can too look good.
Number #11 – You need a few eyeshadow colour to create the smokey eye effect
To be able to make a nice, gradual, smokey effect, the trick is to blend the dark colour such that it fades out beautifully.
Have you ever seen smokey eye instructions at the back of little eyeshadow boxes, where the instructions tell you exactly where the dark and light colours should be?
Well, try it! The different colours will make your eyes more three-dimensional and deep set, so your features will not appear flat.
It is not simple, but practice makes perfect!
Number #12 - Do not over apply
Over applying black eyeshadow is the highway to Ugly Avenue.
Black eyeshadow is supposed to enhance our eyes, not make us look as if we put on eyeshadow so people would know that we are wearing makeup.
We should always keep in mind where our eyebrows are, and how would the proportion of our eyes be like after application.
Unless you want to look like Kelly Osbourne (refer to Kelly’s image at the top), it’s best to be less dramatic.
Number #13 - You do not forget the brows, unless you have bangs
Smokey eyes work if eyebrows work. It is rather pointless to have a gorgeous, perfectly smoked eyes, only to have it ruined by messy eyebrows.
So, do yourself a favour and trim the brows as often as you can.
Number #14 – Take your time
Time is precious in Singapore, and every second counts. I know how is it to have only 10 minutes for makeup before rushing off for work.
But the last thing you want to do is to re-do your messed up smudged eyeshadow after spending 15 minutes on it.
Take your time, no one can rush perfection.
Number #15 - Don’t forget the lashes
Short lashes and beautiful eyes do not bode well, like how uncurled eye lashes could ruin pretty fake lashes.
If you have the intention to smoke your eyes, do also take some time to curl the lashes and apply mascara. This would open up the eyes, creating a doll-like effect.
Number #16 - Don’t forget the pupils
This is optional, but I prefer to enlarge my pupil by wearing big-eye lens.
Smokey eyes would also more captivating with light coloured lens.
Number #17 – Don’t try to use loose powder on your smokey eye
Common sense, right? Apparently, I have subconsciously applied loose powder to my eye area after application of black eyeshadow.
Dumbest. Thing. Ever.
What do I do after that? Well, remove makeup, and start from Step #1.
***
Phew, that’s about the basics of applying smokey eye without looking punched. I have not entirely discussed how to exactly apply eyeshadow the right way, but I will do so in another post.
I came up with the above after years of experimenting and perfecting the smokey eye (though I don’t wear them out everyday), and I hope these little tips would help you in achieving the perfect smokey eye.
Till my next post, enjoy digesting this.
Anne Hathaway in night makeup
I'm a humble little Singaporean girl who loves exploring makeup, and I believe that makeup is like a little pot of magic. 
